AMT 16V Conversion. Electrics, Cooling system. Brakes.

Once the new front end was on and the engine was in the electrics were done (Cheers Jarv) which wasn't too hard, the starter motor had basically the same connections as my original pre-engaged system. The wiring for the lights needed to be slightly longer, the reverse light switch wiring was moved from the tunnel to the engine bay. The fan was wired in and that was about it.

Rear Enginebay

In this pic you can see down the back of the engine bay, to the right is the fuel filter fastened to the frame, further left is the starter motor and solenoid, down at the bottom is the alloy dummy driveshaft bracket. The black plate blanks off the holes where the master cylinders were, and thats the clutch cable going through the bulkhead. Also visible is the blocked off rubber water pipe which can be connected through the inlet manifold to the head.

Engine BayBare RightAt the front a Cavalier radiator was fitted with a metro fan in the Cavalier housing (the Cav fan motor was huge) and the exhaust was wrapped to keep it as cool as possible. A small oil cooler was mounted in front of the rad and plumbed in. The plumbing in of the cooling system was fairly straightforward and works ok, the diagram below shows how mine is connected up.

Cooling DiagramBare Front left One of the most important things about putting such a high performance engine in a Mini is the ability to stop! The thing to remember is that you are going to be arriving at your fave corner much faster than before and getting to that speed in no time at all. Because the standard brake master cylinder is normally removed you have to replace it with either one or two of the AP Racing types.

At the moment a few of us are experimenting as to which combination of sizes and brake types work best. To start with I had two cylinders, plumbed into the brake bias valve on the bulkhead. This isn't ideal though as its better to remove the valve and use a T-piece with bias to the rear brakes being controlled by an adjustable in-line valve either in car or under the bonnet. The cylinders are mounted in a AMTBrake ComparisonBias Valve converted pedal box in the normal position, remote reservoirs provide fluid. This worked well when I had BIG brakes at the front (10.5 inch discs) but not so well with normal four pots. The big ones were bought from Maidstone Mini Centre, they are 10.5 inch vented and grooved discs with an alloy spacer fastened to the drive flange. The calipers are alloy four pot Girling Mk5's. They were supposedly ex F1 kit that was used on a Rallycross Mini by a mechanic from a F1 team! The big problem was that the calipers had no dust seals and eventually the pistons started sticking which meant I warped a disc. They were then replaced by Metro Turbo brakes, you can see the size difference in the picture.

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